Experimenting with these decals has been a blast from the past. I started remembering all those little plastic models I used to do as a kid, and the frustration with those delicate decals. The ones I’ve been using for the pottery are a little more forgiving. I like aesthetically where all this is heading, but I still have some technical issues to figure out - namely my firing results have been inconsistent. Some pieces come out beautiful, others from the same glaze/bisque firings come out with small bumps.
Using Computers: I use computers a lot in creating almost all my artwork. My main reason for using them is to 1: Increase efficiency (I can design something faster and I have multiple undos). My attention span is short, so anything I can do to speed up the creative process without sacrificing craftsmanship, I will. 2: For greater control and consistency over the entire process. I wouldn’t be able to do the things I do without a computerized kiln, or create intricate designs and textures etc without photoshop or illustrator, or do incredibly detailed embroidery, with out my Bernina.
All that being said, I never use the computer to compensate for originality. If I use a photo - it’s a photo I took. If I create a design, it’s one I designed, if I use a machine embroidered image it an image I digitized myself. I never use stock art, stock photos, stock embroideries or scans from magazines or books. I always try to stimulate myself with something that is immediate to me and in my immediate environment. I may sometimes draw from another photo, but my drawings are never accurate and are used in a separate composition to communicate an original expression not related to the original context.
Anyways, below is a quick how to.
1. Materials and Equipment: I got my decal paper from http://www.beldecal.com/laser_paper.html I used the water slide paper for laser jet printers. I also bought a HP 1020 from Office Depot for under $200. The iron in the toner is what is left on the piece after firing. Using other brands may not work, I bought a Brother printer first (it was cheaper) and it didn’t leave any iron at all.
2. My pots are all porcelain bisqued, then glazed to cone 6. I’ve found I need to keep the glaze thickness thin so that it doesn’t slide down vertical surfaces and distort the decal.
3. I first made a crayon rubbing of the pot. This gives me a “flat” surface that shows me the curve of the piece. I then scan this into Adobe Illustrator and use it as a template to lay my design around to be sure it “wraps” around the vessel like I want it to.
4. Illustrator is create for creating designs and patterns. All my designs for these decals were flat black & white designs.
5. I print out the designs on paper first to audition them on the pot, then make adjustments as necessary.
6. I print more than one decal on a sheet, trying to fit as many as I can on that $1 a sheet decal paper.
7. Cut out the decal. I found if I have a large motif I want to use, it’s best to split it into more than one decal, as this is easier to fit around a curved shape.
8. Soak the decal in luke warm water for a minute or two.
9. Position the decal over the spot on the vessel and gently slide the paper out from under it.
10. Squeegie out any water from under the decal with a paper towel, gently so you don’t rip the decal.
11. I’ve come to find that firing the piece to the exact temperature as the underlying glaze is best. As long as the glaze isn’t heavy it won’t slide. I also like the more sepia toned images better than the black ones you get at lower temperatures. But the choice is yours.
The main problem I am currently experiencing is that the piece looks wonderful after the first glaze firing, but the second glaze firing, some pieces are developing small bumps or pinholes. More experimenting is necessary.
These tea pots and more decal vessels will/are available for sale on Etsy: http://khphillips.etsy.com
